My son is feeding "King Lear" the (soon to be) steer (we will castrate the calf tomorrow).
A nice shot of a head of broccoli from the garden, on its way to tomorrow morning's omelette...

Sorry back to goats and steers...
Sorry back to goats and steers...
Here is a shot of my goat milking stand with built-in stanchion (with my 2 year old playing nearby to give you some sense of scale, and yes, those are Zebras in the background... my neighbor raises them along with Camels and Kangaroos... go figure):
This is merely a knee high bench my son and I made from old decking and some 2X4's, and then a stanchion has been fashioned from cheap pine with a jig saw (you could use a coping saw, too) with one side complete stationary and the other pivoting on a bolt on the bottom that closes with the hook and eye hardware typical on outside fencing. This holds the goat's head while you milk. I always give the goat a tasty snack while I milk to keep her occupied and happy.
Some goats kick, especially those that are new to being milked and were not raised on a bottle by people. See that blue thing on the platform? That is a "Goat Hobble" (click the link to see more about the hobble). This hobble will make your life a whole bunch easier - if you want to have a milk goat I highly recommend it.
By the way.... while milking as somewhat of a commitment, it ain't all that big a deal. Once you get good at it, milking 15 minutes twice per day will keep you in all of the milk typical family needs... speaking of which... we pasturize our milk... don't listen to those back-to-the-land jag off's that tell you that pasturizing kills off all the nutrients in your milk. Not a shred of truth. It DOES kill nasties, like Listeria, and other bacteria, and the vast majority of the nutrients remain.
Our goats are raised 100% on pasture, so the milk ewe collect from them is very high in Omega-3 fatty acids. Here they are enjoying a beautiful Tennessee Spring evening:
While we do eat our animals and sell others for human consumption, we make sure that that they live a very comfortable, stress free, cruelty free, free range life. This is no factory farm. The animals have access to fresh pastures free of herbicides and pesticides, water and shelter, in a completely organic and perma-culture environment.
But I digress...
Back to the bottle calves. We can rotate several batches through the farm each year, and actually make a decent profit doing so. The best thing about a bottle calf operation is that you can decide when you want to raise a herd and when you want to sell them all and go on vacation. That is not true of many other farm operations, like dairy. A small holder bent on self sufficiency would still need a "cash crop", and these bottle calves will be 450 to 500 pounds in 6 months or so and ready to go to the feeder and finishing market.
Bottle raising dairy goats makes milking and handling them a BREEZE. I recommend it highly. It is a bit more work than bottle feeding calves, as goats need to be fed 4 times per day for the first 3 or 4 weeks, and twice a day for an additional month, but they are as cute as a new puppy at this age, so it ain't all bad.
"Live Long and Prosper"!
Greg
As usual, a very helpful, and practical blog. I hadn't thought of burning off the weeds (though I do have one of those torches to 'spot' kill them. I've had some success with solarizing' the soil (clear plastic, left in place in the summer) but don't like the idea of killing everything in the soil. And I hesitate to use Roundup since overspray will kill everything around it. So for now it lots and lots of hoeing with a few hand weeding session in my 20x120 garden. The worst problem I have is quack and bermuda grass - till up the plot and you have hundreds of them the next year. And even if you weed them all, the main roots are still underground. So your post gave me the idea to try raised beds/heavily mulched and planting in transplants - nothing should get through that. That'll be for this weekend. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteThe chief objection to raised beds is evaporation. But watering is easier than weeding, and once you get ahead of the weed seed cycle, there should not be as much of a problem.
ReplyDeleteI got the idea from my brother's grandmother in law nearly 40 years ago, and it works for me. Once you let all of the weed seeds sprout and you don't let the new round set seed that will be the end of them for that season... with some minor weeding, of course.
I am also going to burn the beds with straw this fall after harvest and again in spring before planting. I believe the carbon from the burn is also good for your soil's fertility.
I hadn't thought about the clear plastic idea... I would be afraid that that would be tough on my worms, which do not seem to be harmed as I have plenty of the buggers even after the burn.
Please do share the things that work for you, I am always looking for good ideas.
Thanks,
Greg
When I say "burn" i mean to say that I will place dry straw on the beds and set fire to the straw. You must be very careful not to start a forest fire. We have forrest or woods near my garden but I still wait until after a good rain before I burn straw on my beds.
ReplyDelete"We have NO forrest or woods..." typing too fast today...
ReplyDeleteUnderstood, yes good points. I'll do a small test plot and see how it goes. And have a hose and buckets of water ready on a calm day. I started a Terra Preta plot (I create my own charcoal in a 50 gallon drum with dead fallen branches) and crushed up Terra Cotta drain pipes. But found out you need *alot* of charcoal. So that is evolving and I haven't noticed any miraculous fertility results.
ReplyDeleteI stopped burning a long time ago. My wife is paranoid about out-of-control fires. Seems she was burning a brush heap and it got out of control and burned some of the grass along Dulles Access Road to the airport that backed up to the farm house. Being a federal highway, she was the center of the investigation!
So I take my brush down to the municipal shredding operation and come back with mulch for the flower gardens.